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We chose this trip for two reasons. First, we wanted to try the Polaris as an expedition cruise ship, similar to the M/V Explorer, which had taken us to the Antarctic. And, second, we liked the idea of exploring the Amazon from zodiacs, so that we could get up close to the natives, known as the Caboclos, see the wildlife in their natural habitat and the rain forests through which the river flowed.

In reviewing our picture album, the memories all came flooding back. Our first zodiac trip was on the Rio Pucuri where we were greeted by a child paddling his own dugout canoe and we were shown our first native village. Our naturalist and zodiac driver, Suzana, was presented with a handmade model of a river boat in appreciation for her gifts of school supplies and clothing made on previous trips. A heart warming sight.

We were taken out in the zodiacs one day at dawn on the Parana Cachoerini, to see a school of Boto, pink porpoise. One night, on the creek leading to the Lago do Rei, we were shown many, Caiman. Our zodiac drivers were equipped with bright hand-held search lights, which illuminated their eyes as we traveled up stream. Frequently we would catch them in the light as they rested on the river bank. These were incredible sights not soon to be forgotten.

Our zodiac trips each day, through streams and creeks flowing into the Amazon, let us explore the rain forests with their magnificent scenery. At times the trees of the forest and the streamers hanging down would form a "jungle cathedral" through which we silently drifted, looking for the many variety of birds, fish, monkeys and other wildlife. On other occasions, we saw giant lily pads and many species of flowers and plants. Although all our zodiac drivers were versed in all aspects of the Amazon, each had his or her own specialty: fish, bird life, caiman, bats, native plants, etc. The naturalists lectures helped explain to us what we were seeing each day.

Manaus was a bittersweet experience. On the one hand we were told that the pilots could not safely take us up the last half of the river as the water was too low. On the other hand, the staff was able to procure tickets for all 130 passengers, for a performance of "Carmen" at the Opera house. This was built by the Rubber Barons, from materials imported at great expense, from Europe. Imagine seeing a spirited opera, by a celebrated Portuguese opera company, in a city surrounded by the jungles of Brazil. It was a magnificent performance!

Although it was a disappointment not to be able to reach Iquitos, we were offered the option of flying home from Manaus or of returning with the ship to Belem. We chose to go back down river with the ship. The staff did everything possible to make our return trip "outstanding." The Amazon has so many branches that our route down river was entirely different from our route up river. We continued to encounter the Caboclos on our trips down river.  I remember particularly passing an entire family in their dugout canoe and the many fishermen casting their nets from the dugouts. The fish were so plentiful that they even jumped into our zodiacs!

We visited many places never before visited by the ship. Of these one of the more spectacular was the visit to St. Anthony’s Falls. We reached the falls using long narrow dugout-shaped aluminum speedboats via the Rio Jari. The Falls are horseshoe shaped and no more than 45 feet tall. It was breathtaking to be in the center of the horseshoe and to be able to view the water's downpour, up close, on all three sides.